Vancouver to Nanaimo, BC

We’re actually doing it.

This first day was a gentle introduction. Even though it’s 64 miles, only 25 or so were on bike. The rest was the ferry to Nanaimo. The weather was mid 50s to lower 60s, and cloudy. Just about perfect cycling weather.

After getting everything ready downstairs and the necessary goodbyes, we headed east on Adanac towards downtown Vancouver. Holy cow, they know how to do bike infrastructure.

On the approach, the roads were well marked for bikes, including lanes for the wrong way on one way streets and little cute bike stop lights. There were a few cut throughs that were a bit narrow for comfort with the trailers. There was a steady stream of other cyclists, but it wasn’t crowded. As we went we kept telling each other that we were really doing this tour.

As we came to downtown, we got on Dunsmuir, an elevated road with a bike boulevard. As we passed a row of cars waiting in traffic, it opened up to an impressive view of the Vancouver skyline, starting with the BC Place stadium. The surface level raised to the viaduct’s, and we rolled through. The bike boulevard kept being nice, and was plenty wide enough. The only hiccup was a turn where we almost went onto the street, but then saw another cyclist going into the boulevard on the “wrong” side. I don’t know if we both missed the sign, or if there wasn’t one.

That took us to the waterfront, starting at a convention center. Again, there was a nice separate bike/rollerblade path from the pedestrians, although it did switch a bit which was one was on the left and right.

We came across a group of maybe 50 teenage girls plus chaperones, stopped, on bikes, with identical helmets, completely blocking the way. I presume it was some kind of field trip. As we stopped to figure out how to get through, the group started moving. We waited a bit to let them spread out, and followed. For the next couple miles, we passed then in groups of two or five. They tended to stop and start suddenly, and cut across the whole lane trying to get moving from the wrong gear.

The waterfront lead to Stanley Park. The bike path around it is counter clockwise only, which was good, since it got narrower. The path looped around a bit too give another nice view of the city and where we had just come from, along with the Lions Gate Bridge, where we were going. There was a section where you were asked to walk the bike, but the sign didn’t say how far is would be. Fortunately, it was just a few hundred feet.  The kids were quite entertained by the ships and the seaplanes coming and going.

We discussed cutting into one of the proper roads in the park. We could see other cyclists on it, and they seemed to be more our style (although they were much faster; it seems they forgot to bring their trailers). We decided to stick with the planned route.

Naturally, we then hit our first route snafu. We needed to cut in eventually to get up to the bridge. The path Anne chose would have been a challenge to hike up, much less lug a loaded bike. Since the bike path is one way, we had to backtrack dismounted. It wasn’t far to a connecting path to the road we had previously rejected.

The road up was our first decent climb of the day, although it wasn’t really very far before we got to the bridge. The Lions Gate Bridge is very nice. I have a soft spot for suspension bridges. Each side has a one-way bike lane that’s shared with both directions for pedestrians, and great views. It’s like a less stylish blue Golden Gate Bridge, only it wasn’t lousy with tourists. It was just us (tourists, hopefully not lousy) and one walker.

On the far side of the bridge, we continued west along the waterfront again, although this was more industrial-come-fancy-shopping.

We stopped at a grocery store for lunch. Anne and Ruth went inside to get food. Max stayed in his trailer, continuing what I hope is the first of many naps. I watched the parking lot bring out the very best in humanity. Lots of honking and angry gesturing. I’m sure it all helped get things done.  While we were eating, a gentleman stopped to talk to us a bit about our trip, and a trans Canadian trip he was considering with his (presumably adult) daughter.

After lunch, we got into the hills of West Vancouver. We hit a second routing issue when we were scheduled to go down a flight of stairs that would have been difficult to carry a bike down. We consulted a map, and just rode one more block to where it connected at grade.

I knew we were in expensive housing territory when the car brands started getting pretty spiffy. Anne declared that the hills were making her earn her lunch. Again, nothing was really too steep or long, but it was definitely work.

We came upon a sign to turn for the ferry, but our route had us keep going. We decided we try to avoid another issue by following the sign. I don’t know what the route had, but it probably would have been better. The turnoff cut through a golf course, and had a gratuitous and steep hill. I managed to pedal to the top, though Anne ended up walking some. Then it was back down again. All without adequate signage for which roads to follow.

We made it to the ferry with plenty of time. Anne got tickets, and we prepared for the two hour ride. Bikes get on through a two part gate, which was quite difficult to get the trailers through. Once through, it was unclear where to go, exactly. We found our waiting spot, and chatted with another cyclist, who was training for a week long tour later in the summer. She was enthusiastic for our own adventure, and confirmed that some of our route choices over the next few days are good.

The ferry docked, and we were the first to board. This one was a monster, with three vehicle decks. We were directed toward one side, but then nothing. We didn’t know where we were supposed to go. Anne found a bike stand up some stairs, but we would never have fit. It was loud, cars and trucks were everywhere, and the kids both started crying. I stayed with Max, trying to calm him down, while Anne took Ruth to find someone who could tell us what we were supposed to do. She determined that we could just leave them wherever. So we did.

Once we got up to the passenger deck, things got better. It was reasonably quiet, and not too crowded. We relaxed, wandered about, and enjoyed the two hour crossing.

When we arrived in Nanaimo, again it was not super clear what we were supposed to do. We switched our gear back to biking mode, then found an exit. Just a few miles of meandering through Nanaimo later, and we were at the hotel. We made it in time for the kids to play in the pool before dinner, which made at least Ruth happy.

The guy at registration gave Anne a hard time for bringing bikes, but the waitress at the on-site restaurant was excited for us. I guess we’re recognizable even in street clothes.

Tomorrow is a double ferry day. Hopefully it’s clearer than today. Or maybe we’ll be wiser.